Outer Banks Travel Guide: Our Favorite Things to Do, See & Eat After 20 Years
The Outer Banks of North Carolina isn’t simply another place we’ve visited on our travels. For more than 20 years, it was home.
It’s where we raised our family, made lifelong friends, watched countless sunrises over the Atlantic and sunsets over the sound, and even exchanged our wedding vows.
So when our travels brought us back to the Outer Banks, it felt less like visiting another destination and more like coming home.
There are plenty of Outer Banks travel guides telling you about the major attractions. Instead, we thought we’d share the places we still love after living here for more than two decades—the beaches, natural areas, historic sites, restaurants and little experiences we’d recommend to friends coming to the Outer Banks for the first time.
The Outer Banks Is More Than the Beach
The beaches are beautiful, of course. They’re one of the main reasons millions of people are drawn to this narrow stretch of barrier islands.
But there’s much more to the Outer Banks than sitting beside the Atlantic.
You can explore maritime history, visit lighthouses, walk enormous sand dunes, watch fishing boats return with their catch, visit wildlife refuges, learn about the Lost Colony, stand where the Wright brothers first flew, eat locally caught seafood and discover some pretty wonderful little restaurants along the way.
After 20 years, we still hadn’t gotten tired of exploring it.
Start with an Outer Banks Sunrise
If you’re visiting the Outer Banks, get up early at least once.
Yes, you’re on vacation.
Do it anyway.
Watching the sun rise over the Atlantic is one of those simple Outer Banks experiences that never really gets old.
Grab your coffee, head to the beach while it’s still quiet and watch the sky change color over the ocean.
We’ve seen hundreds of Outer Banks sunrises, and we still think they’re worth getting out of bed for.
Our Favorite Outer Banks Beach: Coquina Beach
Everyone has their favorite stretch of beach, and ours is Coquina Beach, south of Nags Head.
It’s also a special place for us personally because this is where we exchanged our vows.
Coquina Beach is part of the Cape Hatteras National Seashore and feels less developed than many of the beaches farther north. If you’re looking for a beautiful beach without houses lining the oceanfront immediately behind you, it’s well worth the drive.
We also like getting to the beach early, before both the crowds and the heat build for the day.
And if you’re traveling with a beach-loving Labrador like General, you may discover that your dog would happily spend the entire day running through the water and digging holes in the sand.
Walk the Dunes at Jockey’s Ridge
You can’t really understand Jockey’s Ridge State Park until you’re standing on top of it.
The enormous sand dune dominates the landscape in Nags Head and is constantly changing as the wind moves the sand.
Over the years, the shifting dune has even covered structures that once stood nearby.
It’s a wonderful place to walk, fly a kite, watch hang gliders or simply climb to the top and take in the view.
If you’re traveling with children, bringing a kite is almost mandatory.
Drive South Across Oregon Inlet
One of our favorite drives takes you south from Nags Head toward Hatteras Island.
Crossing Oregon Inlet gives you wonderful views of the water, boats and surrounding landscape.
The inlet connects the sounds with the Atlantic Ocean, and watching boats make their way through the inlet is part of the experience.
If you’re interested in fishing, this is also an important center for the area’s charter fishing fleet.
Continue south and the Outer Banks begins to feel increasingly wild and undeveloped.
Visit Pea Island National Wildlife Refuge
If you enjoy wildlife—particularly birding—make time for Pea Island National Wildlife Refuge.
This has always been one of our favorite places to enjoy the natural side of the Outer Banks.
Ed is a birder, so naturally this is somewhere we enjoy spending time. The refuge provides habitat for a tremendous variety of migratory birds and other wildlife.
Even if you aren’t an avid birder, it’s a beautiful place to slow down and experience the quieter side of the islands.
One thing to keep in mind if you’re traveling with a dog: pets aren’t allowed on the refuge trails. However, the beach is just across the road, so General could still get his beach time while we visited the area.
Explore the Outer Banks Lighthouses
The lighthouses are among the most recognizable landmarks on the Outer Banks.
Bodie Island Lighthouse is one of our favorites and an easy addition to a day exploring the Nags Head and Oregon Inlet area.
Farther north you’ll find Currituck Beach Lighthouse, while Cape Hatteras Lighthouse stands farther south on Hatteras Island.
Continue all the way to Ocracoke Island and you’ll find Ocracoke Lighthouse.
You don’t necessarily need to visit all of them during one vacation, but they’re wonderful destinations for anyone interested in maritime history, architecture or photography.
Look for the Laura Barnes Shipwreck
One of the fascinating things about living along a constantly changing shoreline is that the ocean occasionally reveals pieces of the past.
The Laura Barnes shipwreck near Coquina Beach is a perfect example.
Over the years we’ve watched it disappear beneath the sand and reappear again. One storm may expose portions of the wreck while another covers it back up.
Whether you’ll see it during your own visit depends entirely on what the ocean and weather have been doing.
That’s part of the fun.
Spend a Day on Roanoke Island
We tend to gravitate toward Roanoke Island because there’s so much to do in a relatively small area.
You could easily devote an entire day—or more—to exploring it.
The Elizabethan Gardens
The Elizabethan Gardens are particularly beautiful during the spring, but they’re worth visiting throughout the year.
They also host seasonal events, and during December the gardens are transformed with Christmas lights and decorations.
It’s a completely different experience from visiting during the warmer months.
Fort Raleigh and the Lost Colony
Anyone fascinated by early American history should visit Fort Raleigh National Historic Site.
This is the area associated with the English colony established on Roanoke Island in the 1580s and the enduring mystery of the Lost Colony.
Nearby, The Lost Colony outdoor drama tells the story of the colonists and the events surrounding their disappearance.
Roanoke Island Festival Park
Another worthwhile stop is Roanoke Island Festival Park, where you can learn more about the history and culture of the area.
History lovers should also look for local collections of historic photographs. Seeing what the Outer Banks looked like before today’s development gives you an entirely different appreciation for the islands.
North Carolina Aquarium
Families may also want to visit the North Carolina Aquarium on Roanoke Island.
It’s an easy addition to a Roanoke Island day and particularly useful to remember if the weather doesn’t cooperate with your beach plans.
Stand Where Aviation History Was Made
If you’re interested in aviation—or American history in general—don’t miss the Wright Brothers National Memorial in Kill Devil Hills.
This is where Wilbur and Orville Wright achieved the first successful powered airplane flights in 1903.
It’s one of those places that can be easy to overlook when you’re focused on beaches and seafood, but you’re standing at the site of an event that changed the world.
That’s worth a stop.
Watch the Fishing Boats Come Home
For a different Outer Banks experience, head south and watch the commercial fishing boats return with their catch.
Fishing isn’t simply a tourist activity here. It’s been part of life on the Outer Banks for generations.
Watching the boats come in provides a glimpse of the working-waterfront side of the islands that visitors don’t always see.
Our Favorite Outer Banks Restaurants
We could probably create an entire guide just about eating on the Outer Banks.
Actually, maybe we should.
Restaurants come and go, so always check what’s currently open before planning your trip, but these have been some of our longtime favorites.
Captain Frank’s
No trip back to the Outer Banks feels complete without stopping at Captain Frank’s for a hot dog.
My favorite is the Chicago dog, while Ed usually chooses kraut or chili cheese.
And don’t forget the chili cheese fries.
Josephine’s
For homemade Italian food, Josephine’s has long been one of our favorites.
Black Pelican
Black Pelican is a great choice when you’re craving seafood or a wood-fired pizza.
Bonzer Shack
One particular favorite at Bonzer Shack is the BLT with fried green tomatoes.
Yes, fried green tomatoes.
Trust us on this one.
Bad Bean
For us, Bad Bean makes an absolutely fantastic taco salad.
High Cotton
When we’re craving barbecue, High Cotton in Kitty Hawk is one of our go-to choices.
Breakfast
For breakfast, we’ve enjoyed both Grits Grill and Jolly Roger over the years.
There’s nothing wrong with starting a busy Outer Banks sightseeing day with a serious breakfast.
Buy Fresh Local Seafood
You don’t have to eat at a restaurant to enjoy good Outer Banks seafood.
If you have access to a kitchen or you’re staying in your RV, pick up something fresh and cook it yourself.
Two places we’ve used are Billy’s Seafood on Colington Island and O’Neal’s Sea Harvest on Roanoke Island.
Fresh local seafood cooked at your campsite or vacation rental can be every bit as memorable as a restaurant dinner.
Save Room for Ice Cream
During our return trip, our granddaughter introduced us to Holy Cow Creamery on the Beach Road.
We found some pretty interesting flavors and, naturally, had to give them a try.
Research purposes, of course.
Shopping, Antiques and Rainy-Day Activities
Sooner or later, almost every Outer Banks vacation gets a rainy day.
Fortunately, there’s plenty to do besides the beach.
You’ll find souvenir shops, locally owned stores, thrift shops and antique stores throughout the area.
There are also family attractions and entertainment options, including activities such as miniature golf, water parks, movies and other attractions.
Keep an eye on local event calendars as well. Seasonal festivals, concerts and cultural events take place throughout the year.
Don’t Try to See Everything
One of the biggest mistakes you can make when visiting the Outer Banks is trying to cram the entire region into a couple of days.
The islands stretch much farther than many first-time visitors realize.
Instead, choose an area and give yourself time to enjoy it.
Spend a morning on the beach. Walk Jockey’s Ridge. Explore Roanoke Island. Drive across Oregon Inlet. Stop when something catches your eye.
That’s a much better way to experience the Outer Banks than racing from attraction to attraction.
Our Outer Banks After 20 Years
Going back after we’d started traveling full-time was an interesting experience.
We originally planned to film much more while we were there. But once we arrived, we were home.
We wanted to visit our children, grandchildren, old friends and familiar places. We spent time talking, catching up and simply enjoying being back.
And maybe that says more about the Outer Banks than any travel guide could.
After more than 20 years, there are still beaches we love visiting, restaurants we miss when we’re away, favorite places we want to see again and sunrises worth getting up early to watch.
The Outer Banks gave us a lot of wonderful memories.
If you’re planning your first visit, we hope some of our longtime favorites become part of your memories too.
We’ll see you down the road…and Over the Hills!
Continue the Journey
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