Things to Do in Custer, South Dakota: Crazy Horse, Needles Highway & Wildlife Loop Road
Some places make a great stop.
Others make you wish you had planned more time.
Custer, South Dakota was definitely the second kind.
After leaving the stark, dramatic landscape of the Badlands, we entered the Black Hills and suddenly found ourselves surrounded by pine forests, granite formations, wildlife, historic sites, scenic drives, and one of the most enjoyable little towns of our trip.
We spent about ten days in the Custer area, and even with that much time, bad weather kept us from seeing everything we wanted to see. Still, what we did experience was enough to make this one of our favorite South Dakota stops.
Arriving in the Black Hills
The change in scenery was immediate.
Leaving the Badlands, we passed a ranch filled with bison and then watched the landscape transform from open, almost desert-like terrain into evergreen-covered hills and rocky outcrops.
It felt like entering an entirely different part of the country.
Staying at Echo Valley Campground
During our stay, we camped at Echo Valley Campground, and we absolutely loved it.
The owners had a large amount of property beyond the main campground and encouraged guests to explore it.
There were ponds, a natural spring, walking areas, and even a cabin where guests could use bows and arrows with a target set up nearby.
It was one of those campgrounds that felt like a destination in its own right.
General quickly learned the routine, too. Once we checked in, he knew Sandy would soon be taking him on a walk while Ed set up the trailer. Dogs really do figure out campground life fast.
Exploring Downtown Custer
The town of Custer itself was fun to explore.
One thing we especially liked was the collection of painted bison statues displayed around town. They reminded us of the decorated wild horse statues we’d seen back on the Outer Banks.
Custer also has plenty of local history.
We saw the site of the first developed lot in the area, visited the Gold Pan Saloon, and toured the old courthouse, which now serves as a local history museum.
For a small town, there was a surprising amount to see.
Visiting Crazy Horse Memorial
One of the biggest attractions on our list was Crazy Horse Memorial.
We had originally misunderstood what it was and assumed it was part of the National Park system.
It isn’t.
The memorial is privately owned and was created after Lakota leader Henry Standing Bear selected the site and asked sculptor Korczak Ziolkowski to create the monument.
The carving remains a work in progress, but the site is much more than the mountain itself.
We found:
- A large Native American museum
- Extensive artifact collections
- Educational exhibits
- A university on site
- The sculptor’s home
- Historical information about the memorial
We came away impressed by the scale of the project and the amount of history presented there.
Driving to the Eye of the Needle
We knew we wanted to see the famous Eye of the Needle, but we had heard enough about Needles Highway to make us nervous.
Everything we had read described it as a white-knuckle drive.
We weren’t interested in making the entire route if we didn’t have to, so we found a road from downtown Custer that took us toward the section near the Eye of the Needle.
That worked perfectly for us.
And once we got there?
It was incredible.
The road twists through huge granite formations and narrow passages, and driving through the Eye of the Needle tunnel was one of the most memorable parts of the trip.
The scenery alone was worth it.
Sylvan Lake
On the way, we passed Sylvan Lake, and there was no way we were driving by without stopping.
It was gorgeous.
Granite formations surround the lake, and there is a walking trail around the shoreline.
Part of the trail becomes rockier and more difficult, so Sandy turned back before completing the entire loop, but even a partial walk was well worth the stop.
While there, we happened to meet another couple who told us about a scenic drive through Custer State Park where we might see wildlife.
That conversation completely changed the rest of our day.
Wildlife Loop Road
Thanks to that tip, we headed to the Wildlife Loop Road.
At first, we drove for quite a while without seeing much wildlife.
Then we found the burros.
These were incredibly friendly-looking animals, and Sandy even got out to pet one.
In hindsight, that wasn’t exactly the smartest idea because they are still wild animals, and Ed was understandably nervous about it.
A little farther along, we finally found what we had really hoped to see.
Bison.
And they were close.
Seeing them right beside the road was one of those moments you remember forever.
Purple Pie Place
Not every day in the Black Hills was sunny.
We had plenty of rain, cold weather, and even hail.
One rainy day, we decided there was really only one reasonable thing to do.
Eat pie.
We stopped at the Purple Pie Place, where they make a limited number of pies each day and close once they’re gone.
We managed to get some of the last pieces available that day.
And yes, it was excellent.
Sometimes bad weather leads to very good decisions.
Weather Changed Our Plans
Our time in Custer wasn’t perfect.
We had several cold and rainy days, with temperatures dropping into the mid-20s at night.
At that stage of our RV journey, we were still learning how much cold weather our trailer could comfortably handle, so we didn’t want to push our luck.
Eventually, snow was moving in from the west, which meant it was time for us to leave.
Because of the weather, we never made it to Mount Rushmore or spent time in the Keystone area.
That was disappointing, but we’d rather miss an attraction than travel in conditions we aren’t comfortable with.
There is always another trip.
Why We Loved Custer
Despite the weather, Custer was one of the best places we visited in South Dakota.
It had almost everything we enjoy in a destination:
- American history
- Native American history
- Scenic mountain roads
- Wildlife
- Historic downtown
- Lakes and hiking
- Great food
- Beautiful campgrounds
- Friendly people
There was enough variety that every day felt different.
Is Custer Worth Visiting?
Absolutely.
If you’re planning a Black Hills road trip, I would give Custer several days if your schedule allows.
You can use it as a base for exploring:
- Crazy Horse Memorial
- Custer State Park
- Wildlife Loop Road
- Needles Highway
- Sylvan Lake
- Mount Rushmore
- Keystone
- Scenic Black Hills drives
And even if you don’t make it to every attraction, simply driving through the area is part of the experience.
Final Thoughts
We spent about ten days in the Black Hills and still didn’t see everything.
That’s probably the best recommendation we can give it.
Custer wasn’t just a place we visited.
It was a place we wanted more time in.
Between the bison, burros, granite formations, historic sites, mountain lakes, and small-town charm, it gave us one memorable experience after another.
If you’re traveling through South Dakota, don’t rush through the Black Hills.
Slow down.
Take the scenic roads.
Stop at the lakes.
Watch for wildlife.
Eat the pie.
And enjoy the ride.
We’ll see you down the road…and Over The Hills!
Continue the Journey
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